Send Out Wishes to the Sea

Posted on June 18, 2013 by everydaytraveller

Wishing Bridge

All over the world, there are legends of wishes coming true. And how many of us would pass up an opportunity to get what our heart desires. Old Jaffa has a lovely wooden bridge where you can look out at the sea and make a wish.

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The wooden railings have metal decorations with all the twelve signs of the Zodiac. It is said that if you touch the one with your zodiac sign while facing the sea, someday, your wish will be fulfilled. I thought this was pretty cute and quirky, so I gave it a spin, just for fun. Sometimes, it’s just about putting your thoughts out there to make them come true!

-Priyanka Nayar

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Seeing how the other half lives in Cannes

Posted on June 17, 2013 by everydaytraveller

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When staying along the Cote d’Azur coast in the south of France, it is fascinating to see the glamour, pace of life and glitz in which many of the visitors live.

Designer stores line the streets, women drip with diamonds and people party with abandon and down expensive French champagne. It really is another world and an interesting insight into how the other half live as they lounge on huge luxury super yachts moored at the marina.

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For those mere mortals (yes me the poor backpacker on a tight budget) the life is just a mere dream but on my trip to Antibes I was lucky to live the dream but for a day. My friend who I was travelling with had an old family friend who was a captain on a smaller super yacht and was around at the same time we were in town.

The stars aligned for us the day we arrived as he was on his way back from dropping his client in Monaco to dock in Cannes. You know, just casually. So taking pity on us poor souls, he decided to pick us up in Antibes so we could cruise back to Cannes with him.

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It wasn’t long before we were lounging on the upper deck pretending to be glamorous super models (Alas I can assure you we are not). The waterfront was resplendent with wealth as super yachts of all shapes and sizes passed us off on exciting journeys and were docked in the large marina. Some of the bigger ones have heli pads and small craft located off the back. These people had serious money.

Once we had berthed, our captain conjured up a cheese platter of epic proportions. Cheese upon cheese was laid out, prosciutto, olives, chorizo – the choices were endless. And then of course it was accompanied with bottles of delicious (and out of my price range) French rosé. But who was I to deny such pleasure?

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As people walked along the promenade and looked over enviously at us and peered in to see if they could recognize any famous faces, we merely clinked our glasses and pretended not to look out of place.

 -Alaina McGregor

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An Art Museum Like No Other –Ilana Goor Museum in Old Jaffa

Posted on June 14, 2013 by everydaytraveller

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Now, I don’t profess to be a regular art gallery enthusiast or that I understand great art. But from time to time, I do visit the Jehangir Art Gallery in Mumbai to look at the inspiring work of artists. And when am in new cities, I try to soak in some of the art scene. But honestly, the Ilana Goor Musem was nothing like anything I had seen before.

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For starters, the museum is actually celebrated Israeli artist Ilana Goor’s home. She bought an old Jaffa house and restored it to create an eclectic museum of her own work, art she had collected over the years and also exhibit art from other contemporary artists. Centuries ago, the building used to be an inn for travelers making their pilgrimage to Jaffa. It stands on a hill and offers excellent sweeping views of the Mediterranean.

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I was a leisurely, solitary walk around old Jaffa and I was keen to see the museum. I needed to ask for directions a couple of times, but when I saw a delightful sculpture of a whale that was also a fountain, I knew the building was close by. Once you’re inside, you will be taken aback by the sheer size and diversity of the art. There are several different rooms that house art centered on cultures. The Lattice Room, for example, is a space that Ilana has preserved from the original building. It used to serve as a peeping area for Muslim women in the 19th century. It now exhibits eclectic work conceptually related to gender.

Sculpture Garden

The rooftop Sculpture Garden is a magical marriage of nature with art. The massive pieces of work stand out magnificently against the backdrop of the sea and the Old City. I spent close to an hour roaming the magical museum. While I couldn’t afford a single thing in the shop downstairs, which included jewelry, curios and even furniture, it was really interesting and inspirational to see Ilana Goor’s work. I would definitely recommend it as a must-see for anyone who loves architecture, history, beautiful views or art. After an hour there, I was as happy as the kitty in the picture who thinks she’s caught the biggest fish ever!

-Priyanka Nayar

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It’s super nice in Nice!

Posted on June 13, 2013 by everydaytraveller

Nice

Having had left the gloomy grey of London behind me, I embraced the heat of the late afternoon sun as I stepped out of the airport in Nice. I had arrived in the south of France and I was intent on soaking up as much Vitamin D as possible.

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The city centre was an easy 15 minute bus ride away and before long I was strolling along the Promenade des Anglais gazing enviously at the sunbathers littering the beach. Bronzed hot bodies sat under blue and white umbrellas, stunning girls in skimpy bikinis frolicked in the water and young men played beach volley ball. I knew my time would come but the priority at hand was to find my hotel which was eluding me somewhere in the Old Town.

Upon checking in, I tried to avoid the lurid green shade of the bedspread. Unlike many of the ultra-rich who descend on the Cote d’Azur during the summer months, unfortunately my budget did not extend to more than a 2 star budget hotel. But because I wasn’t planning on spending much time in my room, I decided it prudent to dump my bags and head out in the sunshine almost immediately.

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Within twenty minutes, I was already sat at a cute little waterside bar with a glass of French rosé in hand and a basket of olives, French bread and olive oil plonked in front of me. As the beauty of the French language silkily rolled off the tongues of those seated around me, I enjoyed the crisp taste of my drink in the salty tinged air. These are the small joys of travelling.

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As dusk fell, the energy pulsed as more people descended on the Old Town for dinner and drinks. Many restaurants offered the local delicacy ‘socca’ (a crepe made from chickpea flour) and waiters from many of the family owned cafes called out to potential customers. Lured in by the genuine warmth of the staff at L’Escalinada, I was soon served a mouthwatering dish of red mullet and zucchini flowers. Sitting outside at tabled decked in red checked table cloths, it didn’t get much authentic than this.

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The next morning, I passed Avenue Jean Medecin and looked longingly at the shops selling designer clothing. But breakfast was on my mind as I arrived at the famous Cours Saleya Markets. Open every day from 6pm in the Old Town, the place fills with people looking to buy freshly made bread, creamy cheeses, tart olives, delicious locally grown fruit and vegetables and gorgeous scented soaps. The markets are also famous for the flower stalls. I was content with a café au lait and a croissant before I headed to Blue Beach and found myself a spot on the sand amongst the crowd in which to relax with a good book. Luckily I bought a mat as the rocky beach can be uncomfortable.

In the afternoon, I decided it was time to brave the 100 plus steps up to Castle Hills for an unrivalled vista of the Mediterranean and the city. Finding a café at the top of the hill, I thought it would be a shame not to enjoy it with another chilled glass of Nice’s finest rosé. Not a bad life at all.

-Alaina McGregor

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A Time machine called the Christ Church, Kasauli

Posted on June 12, 2013 by everydaytraveller

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Kasauli is a beautiful place nestled in the Himachal hills close to Shimla. The best way to explore this quaint town is by simply walking around. When I first came to Kasauli, I couldn’t shake off the feeling of going back in time…sometime in the 19th Century.  With the cobbled paths, narrow streets, stone architecture and quiet air it was easy to forget what year it really was.

As we climbed up the gradually sloping road to Mall road, the ‘shopping’ district of Kasauli, the presence of tiny shops and tea stalls emphasized the aura of a time-warp. Right on the main Mall road we came upon a beautiful church called the Christ Church.  A neat little structure surrounded by chestnut and fir trees, the church immediately drew us to explore it more closely.

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Walking up the tiled path, I felt like I was part of an old folktale set in a European village! As we got closer, we saw the clock tower and the arched entrance. Inside, just above the altar were three stained glass windows. I later found out these detailed works of art were imported all the way from Spain and Italy. The church was simple, small and comforting with a tiny iron fireplace. It’s a place of worship for about 30 families, and the well maintained structure shows the importance of this church in Kasauli’s culture.

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I read up about it only after we came back home. The church was built in 1884 and is said to be a great example of the Gothic architectural style. The building is shaped like a cross and it was constructed by the British family who founded the town of Kasauli over a century ago.

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Just outside are huge, ancient trees with wide trunks and leafy boughs. I tried to see if I could hug one all the way with my arms but barely managed to cover half the circumference!

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A little more exploration brought us to a sundial which was probably installed during the British era. A clue is that Kasauli is spelt as Kussowlie – a typical reminder of how all Indian words were pronounced differently in the heavy Brit accent.

We had come to Kasauli in search of a peaceful time that would connect us with nature. The church was yet another place where our wish was granted. A nice breeze, chirping of birds, rustling of leaves and a stunning, historic architectural delight made for a pleasant evening. The only thing missing – a book of Wordsworth’s poems.

-Priyanka Nayar

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When the Expectation Doesn’t Live Up to the Hype

Posted on June 11, 2013 by everydaytraveller

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Going from the feedback that many friends gave me about Cassis, I was looking to a visit to this sleepy fishing village in the south of France as being the highlight of my trip. A quaint little seaside town with a bustling waterfront, a little beach to swim and sunbathe at and gorgeous calanques to explore (creek/inlet) – what was there not to love?

While I thoroughly enjoyed my time there, eating and drinking at the various bars and restaurants dotted along the waterfront and exploring the cobble stoned streets, I left feeling a little disappointed. Was it the fact that the hype led me to believe Cassis would offer me much more or is it that as someone who has travelled extensively through many parts of the world, my level of expectation to be wowed is out of kilter and differs vastly from how someone else may perceive a place?

As a New Zealander and being privy to some of the most beautiful and contrasting natural scenery and phenomena in the world, it is hard to not use it as a base for comparison. One of the most popular activities in Cassis is to board a boat and explore the many calanques. There are three options, 3, 5 or 8 calanques which vary in price and length.

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We chose the middle option and for a steep 18 euro, we were taken on an hour trip around the bay. For the price, we were expecting some remarkable scenery but overall I felt it lacking – perhaps the price made it more so. Had it been 10 euro, I may have felt the price more justified for what we experienced. Coming from a country that has one of the biggest coastlines in the world, I know water and the scenery surrounding it so my expectations were high.

As the tour guide over the intercom was French, we were given a pamphlet with the explanations in English. There was a small blurb into the history of each inlet and identified any particular spots of interest to look out for. But as we cruised into each inlet, it was much more of the same imposing limestone jagged cliffs with sparse pine trees and vegetation.

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The gloomy weather made the water unnaturally dark which I imagine would have been a gorgeous clear blue on a fine day. Boats on moorings were dotted around and overall the scenery was idyllic and serene but I just wasn’t blown away. Yes it was pretty, but it wasn’t anything I hadn’t seen before. And in all honesty I have seen much prettier cliffs and waterways.

Am I judging too harshly without giving credence on its own merits? Am I comparing it unfairly to other places I have been lucky enough to visit? Or do I have scenery fatigue…..well you’ve seen one cliff/inlet/waterway, you’ve seen them all?! But this isn’t the first time I have felt this way. Oia on Santorini in the Greek Islands is renowned for its spectacular sunsets. Visitors crowd vantage points to watch the full orange orb sink below the horizon.

When I was there, the crowds clapped once it disappeared from sight. I remember looking around confused. These people had obviously never seen a sunset over one of Auckland’s West Coach beaches in New Zealand where the clouds create a multitude of pink, red and orange streaks across the sky. That is what I call a sunset – yes Oia was pretty but it wasn’t the most amazing sunset I’ve seen.

Perhaps I am spoilt with having been lucky enough to come from such a beautiful country where the very things people travel far and wide to see are the norm in NZ. Traveling the world does put it into perspective and make me more grateful for what I have grown up with.

Have you been disappointed or been left underwhelmed with a place or attraction that you thought was going to be amazing?

-Alaina McGregor

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My First Brush with Exotic Jaffa

Posted on June 10, 2013 by everydaytraveller

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I looked at the map in my trusty Tel Aviv travel guide, now slightly dog-eared and worn. Today I had plans of exploring the ancient port of Jaffa. Jaffa is now a part of greater Tel Aviv, the oldest part of this modern city. I love exploring new places on foot. Thankfully, my hotel in Tel Aviv was right next to the beach and the map told me that if I just kept walking south I’d arrive in Jaffa in about half an hour.

The sun shines brightly all through the year in this part of the world, which is why I set off after an early breakfast. Few things can be as relaxing as walking along an ocean, and this was the gorgeous Mediterranean Sea. I had fallen in love with the gentle, azure water at first sight. I was exploring by myself and was in no hurry. After about 15 minutes, I spied the Jaffa skyline ahead of me. Excited, I fastened my pace.

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The first thing that welcomes you at Jaffa’s entrance is an impressive, old clock tower. Said to be one of the seven clock towers erected in Israel by the Ottomans, Jaffa’s clock tower also commemorates the fallen Israelis in the Arab-Israeli War of 1948. I have a soft spot for architecture, modern as well as ancient and was immediately drawn to the Jaffa Clock Tower.

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It was a quiet morning and not many people were out and about. This made it easy to capture the beauty of the tower from several different angles. I walked over, circled it, crossed the street and looked at it. Came back closer and tried to capture all the details.

The first stone for this tower was laid around the start of the 20th century to mark the silver jubilee of the Ottoman Sultan Abd al-Hamid the II’s reign. Residents of the city, both Arabs and Jews, contributed to build the tower. Seafarers who arrived here in the early 1900’s encountered the clock tower, just outside the city walls. When it was renovated in 1965, vibrant mosaic windows and new clocks were installed. The interesting mosaics depict Jaffa’s history through the ages.

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The old tower stands in the center of the main road that leads into Jaffa. On both sides are pretty shops and buildings. Heaps of old architecture that mirrors the signature limestone colors of the Jaffa Clock Tower. As I strolled along the sidewalk, I glimpsed art galleries, cafes, restaurants, boutique stores and currency exchange shops. The scene was trendy with an artsy vibe and surprisingly non-touristy. I’d recommend that you take your time to browse through the lovely shops that have some vintage treasures on offer.

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I wandered around a bit longer, dragging my feet as I tried to capture this special journey in my memory. The quaint atmosphere, the delightful buildings, the glorious weather all made for cherished moments. Eventually, I ended up at the famous Jaffa flea market where the atmosphere was buzzing. It’s a great place if you’re looking for clothing, accessories and vintage finds. Be ready to give your jaw a good work out too, because most sellers here love a good bout of bargaining!

-Priyanka Nayar

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French Cuisine at its Most Delectable

Posted on June 10, 2013 by everydaytraveller

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French food is famous the world over for its creamy cheeses, delectable sweet treats and savoury dishes that fill stomachs over a perfectly matched wine.

When traveling through France, it is best to put any thoughts of a diet out the window and enjoy eating your way around the country.

Here is a list of food items that must appear on any must-try list when visiting France.

Croissant

This delicious buttery and flaky bread roll features heavily on continental breakfast menus around the world but no one does it better than the French in France.

To achieve the exact texture, the dough is layered with butter, rolled and folded several times in succession and then rolled into a sheet.

Heralding back to the Middle Ages, this crescent shaped bread item has long been a top seller in French bakeries and patisseries.

Absolutely delicious with ham and cheese or just served plain and slightly warm to bring out the buttery taste, you’ll enjoy starting the day munching on one of these. Or even better, choose the chocolate route and request a pain au chocolat!

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Crème glacée (ice-cream)

Walk around any French town in the summer months and you will see locals and tourists alike enjoying one of these cold desserts. Choosing a flavour from the many on offer might almost be one of the hardest things you do while enjoying a relaxing holiday.

Some of the top flavours are:

Au café – coffee

Au cassiss – blackcurrant

Au chocolat – chocolate

A la banana – banana

A la fraise – strawberry

A la nosiette – hazelnut

A la pistache – pistachio

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Macaron

Recently taking over the cupcake as the latest must-have sweet treat in social circles around the world, this particularly tricky to make meringue confection will attract any sweet tooth. Made with eggs, icing sugar, granulated sugar and almost powder, the coloured macaron is filled with a ganache between the two circular bases. Flavours can range from raspberry, lemon and nutella. Delicious!

Escargot

This dish of cooked land snails is normally perceived as the quintessential ‘must-try’ French delicacy. Commonly served as an appetizer, they are often cooked in garlic butter.

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Cheese (Fromage)

With 350-400 distinct types of cheeses available in France, no cheese platter or picnic will ever be left lacking. Some of the more popular cheeses include Camembert, Brie, Roquefort, Reblochon, Pont l’Évêque and Chèvre.

Best paired with bread and wine for the ultimate enjoyment.

Crepe

A delicious street food item, there is nothing more satisfying than standing on the footpath in chilly winter conditions while munching on a hot Nutella crepe. A very thin pancake made from wheat flour, the name come from the Latin word which means ‘curled’. Commonly served with sweet fillings such as lemon sugar and nutella or a variety of savoury options including cheese, mushrooms and other vegetables.

Bouillabaisse

This is a traditional Provencal fish stew that is best enjoyed at a waterside restaurant in the south of France. There are normally three kinds of fish in a traditional bouillabaisse including red racasse, sea robin and European conger. It also includes other types of seafood and vegetable such as leeks, onions, tomatoes, celery and potatoes. What makes it different is the special selection of local Provencal herbs which are added to the broth.

Bon appétit!

 -Alaina McGregor

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Unassumingly Elegant – Hawa Mahal in Jaipur

Posted on June 7, 2013 by everydaytraveller

On a recent road trip from Delhi to Ahmedabad, I got my first glimpse of Rajasthan. Rajasthan has always been associated with a riot of colors, turbaned men with huge mustaches and beautiful palaces. But subconsciously the most powerful imagery is that of camels walking through a dry desert. Imagine my surprise when I actually saw a green and bountiful countryside instead. The rains had completely transformed the scenery.

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Officially the ‘Pink city’ of India, Jaipur has some of the most beautiful forts, palaces and temples in North India. It’s easy to lose yourself in the abodes of maharajas and the exquisite talent of the local artisans. But any brochure for Indian tourism is incomplete without the shot of Jaipur’s most iconic building – the Hawa Mahal. It is probably the most famous historical structure from India after the Taj.

I was traveling with my family and since we were on a tight schedule, we didn’t have time to stay for too long in Jaipur. So we had to pick one place to see quickly, grab some lunch and carry on southward. Hawa Mahal was a unanimous favorite. We’d all seen it featured on travel shows and in travel magazines.

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After following the directions of some helpful signages, we reached the main road that led to the Hawa Mahal. Excited to spot the gates to the palace grounds, we kept our eyes glued to the right side of the road. Soon, the familiar façade showed up and we drove past it thinking, “It can’t be the real thing. It is bang on the main street, surely this is an imitation!” Imagine our embarrassment when we asked someone where the Hawa Mahal was and they pointed out the structure we had just dismissed.

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Sheepishly, we turned the car around and parked at a respectable distance. That’s when I remembered, the Hawa Mahal was built specifically so that royal ladies could watch the processions and festivities on the street below! Bah, my history was rusty. When we got out and walked up to the façade, our arrogance was justly destroyed. There was no way this was an imitation. It was the real deal.

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The gorgeous Hawa Mahal (wind palace) was made in 1799 and is five stories high. The exterior looks like a larger than life honeycomb with a whopping 953 small windows. These windows are called jharokhas and have intricate lattice work. That way the ladies could see what was going on but no one could look inside the building. Plus the lattice work creates a venturi effect, which cools the breeze as it enters the palace thus providing excellent air conditioning for the scorching summer months!

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Built with the city’s favorite red and pink sandstone, the style reflects a marriage of the Rajput architecture with the Mughal. Cleverly designed to cool the interiors, water fountains inside each chamber add to the natural air conditioning of the palace. The elaborate mesh designs vary across the Jaharokhas that may be missed at first glance. Humbled by the beauty and ingenuity of this building, we spent a large part of an hour just craning our necks and exclaiming in delight. No matter how pedestrian its location, the Hawa Mahal is stunning enough to be the home for royalty.

-Priyanka Nayar

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Even the Tortoises Enjoy the Slow Pace of Prison Island

Posted on June 7, 2013 by everydaytraveller

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Just a short 30 minute boat trip from Zanzibar’s Stone Town lies Prison Island (also known as Changuu Island), a quiet home to more than 100 endangered Giant Aldabran Tortoises.

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Having made the island their home since they were gifted from the Seychelles Government in the 19th century, it is one of few places in the world they can now be found.

Formerly a prison for slaves and used as a quarantine station, the tiny island off the coast of Tanzania now offers a quiet place for contemplation and swimming in the warm sea.

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Each tortoise has their age painted on its shell and it is simply mind boggling to see some ambling around who are aged in their 120′s! Some of the larger ones are up to six feet in length and weigh up to 550 pounds. Some of the older ones have cracked shells and one can only imagine what their ancient and weathered faces have seen and been through in their lifetime. It is possible for visitors to pet and feed the tortoises while visiting the sanctuary.

The island is also home to beautiful butterflies, peacocks and singing birds that have made the peaceful forest habitat their home. Recently Changuu Private Island Paradise undertook a restoration project and turned the historic buildings on the island into a resort where you can stay in seaside cottages. They have also built a nice cafe where you can enjoy a cool drink and lovely meal.

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Many people also take advantage of a trip out to Prison Island to go snorkeling at the coral reefs just off the golden shores.

Unfortunately tiny little stingers made for an uncomfortable time in the water at the time but the quality of the coral was some of the best I’ve seen in the world. It was heartening to see a reef that hadn’t been damaged and was full of dead coral. Brightly coloured tropical fish darted amongst the sea plants swaying in the current and it was incredibly relaxing drifting above the underwater scenery.

A visit out to Prison Island is the perfect way to experience some of Zanzibar’s natural beauty and meet some its wildlife inhabitants.

-Alaina McGregor

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